Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Cape Perpetua, Oregon Coast


At the Visitor's Center, we asked about the trail to Thor’s Well, since it strangely wasn’t on the map. A ranger explained that a photographer took a picture and called a collapsed underwater cave “Thor’s Well” and posted it on the Internet, so many people have lately been asking, “Where’s Thor’s Well?” She also said it’s on the trail with Spouting Horn, and that they’re very active today. It was only a half mile down a paved trail, and the trail conveniently started right next to the Visitor’s Center.

We set foot on the trail and delightful, fascinating plants immediately surrounded us. These included very tall trees—evergreens and bare-branched white trees, particularly covered with moss and with stark, stubby branches, jutting out. Bushes alongside the trail, some with blackberries and some with little white flowers that looked like bells, or little round red berries (I assumed poisonous), and vines with pale green curlicues.

The sun truly came out, and the sky was bright blue by the time we got down to the rocks in the ocean—but I’m getting ahead of myself.

The trail to the ocean slanted downward at first, and we walked through a tunnel under Highway 101. In the tunnel, I yodeled like a ghost because of the echo. We came out from under the tunnel, and the path veered to the right and left, with a sign pointing out what was in which direction. Straight ahead was a fence, and beyond it was a cliff overlooking an inlet of the ocean. Wet sand with driftwood and some rocks, rocky cliffs on either side of that. Blue, blue water beyond.

We kept following the path—even the bushes on either side of the path were delightful, magical, like something out of a fantasy world (and yes, I’ll create a fantasy world that incorporates Cape Perpetua).

We gradually descended the left path leading to Spouting Horn. We came to an information board with images and explanations of some of the creatures we might see, such as starfish and anemones and peculiar but beautiful slugs that have white and red “hairs” sticking out all over. We kept walking, got to the end of the trail, and stepped down onto sand and dark rocks.

I didn’t hesitate to walk out onto the bumpy, rocky seaside. Pools contained small rocks, shells (mostly broken) and tiny dark brown tadpoles. I thought the tadpoles were delightful. I kept walking and absorbing the breathtaking scenery: the cliffs, the rocks, the ocean and the powerful, rolling waves coming toward us and crashing on the rocks. It was steady and continual, like breathing in and breathing out.

We headed back up the path and crossed a little wooden bridge and took the path toward Devil’s Churn and Thor’s Well. Delightful plants still surrounded the path, including bright yellow flowers and tiny daisies and flowers that were like one inch round pompoms. We descended the sand onto the rocks. The ocean met with rows of inland rocky areas, where the ocean waves rolled in and then leaped up into the air as they hit the big rocks. The waves spouted up high before backing away and starting the process all over again.

We came to a long, dramatic crevice in the dark rocks, where the ocean waves came splashing in and drifted back.

Some of the rocks were tricky to walk on; my phobia about falling made me overly cautious.

We saw a long crevice full of bright green anemones, but no starfish. I collected a few shells that weren’t broken. When I reached down to pick up one shell in shallow water, it moved slightly and held fast to the sand. I hastily let go of it. Probably a crab.

As did other visitors, we walked up close to the Spouting Horn and Thor’s Well  and watched, mesmerized. I could have stayed there for days—though I was aware of my cat Cheetah at home alone, when Audrey mentioned that her cats were anxiously waiting.

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